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I’ve watched many RVers do it and read of experts who connect their water supply hose to the the RV first.

I doubt I’m the only RVer who does it my way, but I have a routine of connecting my RV water supply hose to the campground faucet first. Here is why.

RV Campground Pedistal

  • By connecting to the campground faucet and running some water through the hose I can flush out the hose. This is even more important the longer it’s been between hookups. Who knows what bugs, dirt, etc. have gotten in the hose. Certainly, if you connect the ends of your hose when not in use you keep the dirt out, but closed up that way a hose can get really funky.
  • If you’re the first to use that campsite in a while there can also be rusty or cloudy water come from the campground water line when you first open the faucet.
  • I’ve seen a video of an RVer who rigged up a Y-valve at the RV side water connection to bleed the air from the hose. By running water to flush the hose the way I do it, it also ‘primes’ the hose displacing most of the air. Just keep the end of the hose above the campground faucet while connecting to your RV.  (turn the water off first) You’ll get little if any sputtering from your RV sink faucets.
  • While flushing the hose I’m also getting a good idea of what the water pressure is. If it’s really high I use my regulator. I don’t always use a water pressure regulator… but I’m not telling you that you shouldn’t. When we started RVing I always used one but over the years I’ve found that most campground water pressure is fine as is. And there are times when it can be very low. In these cases I don’t want the reduced flow a regulator causes.

I don’t use a lot of water doing my routine. It doesn’t take that long to flush even the longest hose and usually it’s 25 feet or less. Besides, if there isn’t a bush or tree nearby that needs watering I just water the grass so the water isn’t wasted.

So, what’s your routine? I’d like to have your thoughts. Please leave your comments below.

Dry rot in an RV is like cancer in a human body… it’s never good but not always fatal. It all depends on how far it’s spread before you find it. Maybe you can just repair the bad spots. Then again maybe the cancer has spread to far. The good thing is, dry rot damage can be repaired. The bad thing is it can cost a lot of money. Proper preventive maintenance and timely repairs are the key.

See the photo below.

Extensive dry rot damage in this trailer show the importance of preventive maintenance and timely repairs.

Dry Rot Damage - Photo courtesy All-Rite RV, Yuba City, CA


I can tell you the only evidence of any problem with the trailer was at the front corner under the window. The rest of the trailer, inside and out, looked fine and in good condition. However, as you can see, only once repairs were started was the true extent of the damage visible. Don’t know for sure but it makes sense there is more damage under the sheet metal on the front wall as well.

The last I knew, the shop was still waiting to see if insurance was going to pay for the repair or salvage the trailer.